After nearly a year since my last safari, I decided it was time to book Safari #7. Two months after my return from my last trip in February 2023, I realized the safari bug wasn’t just a fleeting “high” – it was a deep longing. So, in April, I secured my next adventure, eagerly anticipating the journey ahead.
Logistics and Flight:
This time, I decided to splurge on Business Class from the get-go, booking all four legs (BOS-AMS-NBO-AMS-BOS) with Delta-KLM. Having suffered through upgrade struggles last time, I found a dip in fare prices and managed to secure a comfortable seat in DeltaOne suites from Boston to Amsterdam and Business Class on KLM from Amsterdam to Nairobi. Although KLM had a slight delay departing from Amsterdam, I was well taken care of, and the flight was smooth overall. On the return trip, I braced myself for potential weather delays in Europe, but thankfully, the stormy conditions didn’t affect my journey.
The real treat of Business Class came upon arrival in Nairobi. Crystal Tours Kenya made sure I had priority service, ensuring a quick and hassle-free passage through immigration, and I was off to my hotel in no time. Within 45 minutes of deplaning, I was relaxing at the Four Points at Nairobi Airport, ready for the next leg of my safari.
Nairobi to Lewa Downs – A Warm Welcome:
Thanks to the new bypass road, I didn’t have to leave hours in advance for the flight to Lewa Downs. I was picked up at 8:30 AM for my 10:00 AM flight, and we left on time at 9:50. I’ve learned it’s always best to arrive an hour ahead for smooth boarding.
Lewa Wilderness Camp was my first destination, chosen largely due to its association with the late Anthony Bourdain. As a huge fan, I was excited to experience Kenya through his eyes. The camp is set on a hillside with thatched-roof rooms overlooking a ravine – stunning! During our drive from the airstrip, we spotted two of the “Northern Five” – Somali ostriches and reticulated giraffes.
I was paired with Johnson, my guide at Lewa, and we had a wonderful time together. He expertly tracked a lion pride hidden in the tall grass – a challenge given the dense vegetation, but a rewarding sighting nonetheless. Even at close range, the southern white rhinos were remarkably calm, a feeling that added to the tranquility of the experience.
Northern Five and Night Drive Adventures:
My time at Lewa didn’t disappoint. Johnson ensured we got excellent views of black rhinos, including a trio of a mother and her two calves. After my companions left for a different activity, I went on a night drive with Johnson. It was thrilling to spot a leopard feasting on an impala kill, while a young hyena lurked nearby, hoping to snatch a bite. This rare sight was just for me, and I could have watched it for hours.
The food at Lewa Wilderness Camp was a highlight, especially for a vegetarian like me. The camp grows much of its own produce, and the garden tour was a real treat. I even had a chance to pick ingredients for a “make your own pizza” lunch, a fun experience that tied into the camp’s sustainability efforts. The inventive Thai green papaya salad, lime coconut sorbet, and homemade goat cheese were culinary delights, and the creative mocktails prepared by Meshack, the bartender, kept me refreshed throughout the day.
One of my favorite experiences was spotting the remaining Northern Five: Grevy’s zebra, Besia oryx, and gerenuk. The gerenuks were a rare treat, as they’ve become increasingly scarce due to leopard predation. But Johnson’s keen eye led us to a small herd, and we marveled at these graceful creatures during a bush breakfast.
A Challenging Hike and Scenic Views:
On one particularly ambitious day, I decided to hike up the tall hill opposite the camp. At an altitude of 5,500 feet, it was no easy feat, especially without a clear trail. But the sense of accomplishment was worth it as we reached the top and took in the sweeping views of Lewa’s stunning landscape. From above, I could spot giraffes and waterbucks below, and the sight of my room looking so small from this height was a humbling reminder of the vastness of the area.
Lewa’s Unique Charm:
What stood out most about Lewa was how under-visited it felt. I rarely saw other vehicles, which made the experience feel all the more intimate. Lewa also has an incredible aroma thanks to the African marigold flowers and eucalyptus trees, which gave the air a refreshing, almost medicinal scent. It was one of those places where the smells, sights, and sounds left a lasting impression, and I know that every time I encounter those scents again, I’ll be transported back to Lewa.
Next up: Ol Pejeta Conservancy and Naboisho Conservancy in Maasai Mara will continue my unforgettable safari adventure with Crystal Tours Kenya. Stay tuned for more!
