I’ve just returned from visiting the premier Great Plains camps in Kenya’s Maasai Mara, and I have to say, while they all share a similar ethos, each camp offers something distinct. So, let’s dive into the differences.
I didn’t stay at Mara Expedition Camp, which belongs to their “Explorer Collection.” In my mind, if you’re not staying at the top-tier camps, you’re just…well, missing out. But let’s focus on the real stars: Mara Toto, Mara Nyika, and Mara Plains. All are members of Relais & Châteaux, sharing a commitment to conservation. However, the differences between them are as stark as the contrast between a gourmet meal and a fast-food drive-through. And don’t worry, I won’t bore you with the usual spiel about guides and service (they’re top-notch across the board), but the real differentiators here are location, style, and vibe.
Rules of the Mara
One of the first things to understand about the Mara is that different areas have different rules. Not all camps are created equal!
Take the Maasai Mara National Reserve, for example. While there’s a five-vehicle limit per sighting, good luck finding that being respected. The Reserve can get crowded, especially at key wildlife sightings. There’s also a strict curfew from 6:00 am to 6:30 pm, and off-roading is a no-go. At one point, my guide pointed something out, and the action seemed as distant as a story told over a cup of tea. The excitement? Not exactly.
Then, there are the private conservancies like Mara Nyika and Mara Plains, where the rules are much more relaxed. The vehicle numbers are strictly capped, with Mara Plains only allowing five vehicles per camp. In other words, there’s a maximum of 25 vehicles in the entire area at any given time. And off-roading? Yes, please! You can get much closer to the wildlife. Plus, night drives are allowed until 10 pm, which is a game-changer for safari enthusiasts.
You may wonder, why choose the National Reserve over the private conservancies? Well, for one, the famous river crossings take place in the Reserve, and while it may get crowded, there’s still plenty of action. However, private conservancies tend to offer much more peace and exclusive access, especially for photographers.
Food
The food across all three camps is essentially the same. Honestly, I used to be picky about this, but now I’ve come to appreciate the simplicity. Safaris have become the subtle art of weight gain—great food, minimal physical activity, and no gyms in sight. It’s a weight loss journey in reverse. Fortunately, the camps are now offering smaller portions to keep the indulgence in check.
I opted to skip the camp breakfast and enjoyed a more casual breakfast out in the bush—yogurt, granola, fresh juices, sausages, bacon, and toast. The “bush breakfast special edition” included a chef preparing eggs and potatoes in the middle of nowhere, which somehow never gets old. Lunch is always simple, with a single dish followed by a small dessert. Dinner, too, is straightforward but delicious: one starter, three main course options, and a single dessert. The food was consistently high-quality, and I found myself enjoying every meal.
Mara Nyika
Mara Nyika is located in the private Naboisho Conservancy and offers just six tents perched on raised platforms. The camp blends seamlessly with the environment but doesn’t leave a lasting impression. Despite being relatively new (opened in 2019), it feels somewhat underdeveloped compared to its counterparts.
While Nyika is in a great location, sharing a conservancy with seven other camps means you won’t always get an exclusive experience. I had a few moments where I missed sightings because I had to wait my turn, though I also experienced some incredible wildlife moments in solitude. The food here, however, was the best of all three camps—absolutely fantastic.
Mara Toto
Mara Toto, with just four tents, offers a smaller, more intimate experience. The camp blends safari-chic with rugged luxury—canvas walls, brass fixtures, and hardwood accents. While it doesn’t have the design flair of other luxury lodges, it strikes a balance between authenticity and indulgence.
However, the location is where it falters. Mara Toto, although close to Mara Plains, doesn’t share the same access to the Olare Motorogi Conservancy. The Maasai Mara Reserve, where it is located, comes with its usual restrictions—no off-roading, night drives, or access to key areas. If you want more flexibility, you can head to Mara North Conservancy, but that’s a 30-40 minute drive away.
Mara Plains
Mara Plains is the flagship of Great Plains, with just seven suites, including the stunning two-bedroom Jahazi Suite. Located within the 35,000-acre Olare Motorogi Conservancy, it offers some of the best wildlife sightings with minimal vehicle traffic. One of the biggest advantages of Mara Plains is that it allows night drives—a rarity in the region. The camp’s colonial-style décor, dark woods, leather furniture, and chandeliers create a luxurious yet classic safari atmosphere.
The tents are spacious, with large decks and roll-up canvas sides, making it feel more like a luxurious home than a tent. The camp also boasts a dedicated spa (though no gym). Additionally, Mara Plains has access to both the Maasai Mara Reserve and the Olare Motorogi and Mara North conservancies. Whether you’re after river crossings or an abundance of lions, you’re in great hands.
The highlight for me was the night drives. Lions are typically lazy during the day, but at night, I witnessed them hunting giraffes and hippos—a truly spectacular experience.
Conclusion
Mara Plains is, without a doubt, the winner. Unless, of course, you dislike wildlife entirely.
While Mara Plains may not be the epitome of luxury in terms of amenities, it excels in providing an extraordinary safari experience. The night drives, exclusive access to conservancies, and incredible wildlife sightings make it an unforgettable destination.
If luxury is your main concern, then Singita Grumeti might be a better fit. But, if you’re looking for a wildlife-centric safari with a touch of luxury, Mara Plains delivers everything you need and more.
Looking to book your next safari adventure? Reach out to Crystal Tours and Travel Ltd at info@crystaltourskenya.com or call +254 721 994 205 to plan your dream getaway. We’ll help you find the perfect experience in Kenya’s Maasai Mara!
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